So, after 3 days in transit I finally arrived in Nairobi a bit cranky, tired and in deseprate need of a shower. I think I managed to get in about 3-4 hours of sleep on the 8 hour flights but hadn't slept the two nights prior either so it wasn't a good scene. All I could think about was a shower and sleep- the 2 most essential S's after spending so long travelling. But my eye was on the prize, we got off the plane and jumped right on the line for other passport holders (joined by new friend Ameena from Toronto who was my neighbor on the flight and fast friend!). Well, first mistake was joining the other passport holder line. I forgot that you need to go to the visa counter if you don't have your visa when arriving to Kenya (other travels take note). After moving to the back to the passport holders line and realizing the line wasn't moving at all- we became fast friends and supporters of the UK Jubilee Games team (still not clear exactly what the Jubilee Games are but apparently are some huge Muslim Sports League event where young people from all over the world are apparently all now descending on Nairobi) in order to go join a new line. Ameena and I assumed there was some expedited process for all of these athletes and we could somehow join the fun! Alas, this was not to the the case. We got rerouted to another line that looked strikingly like our first line and moved at the same snail's pace or more to the point, not at all. At one point, I think we calculated close to 30 minutes per person.
After more than an hour and a half of little to no movement and crankiness turning into downright misery, we were informed that on Thursday the Kenya Government had decided to institute some new border control process that involved sticker visas (which although pretty seriously do not warrant the extra hours of standing in line!) and lots of manual processes- copying your info from one notebook to another and on and on (let us not forget that you need two pieces of papaer, one for your via and one for your entry declaration and apparently two forms is more than double the fun!) So on and on this goes until three hours later Ameena and I make it through. One would think we were overjoyed but after 3 hours on top of your 8 hour flights on top of your day in London on top of your 6 hour flight to London (which although oivernight does not constitute a real overnight) and well, we were more relieved than anything. But the apprehension remained as both Ameena and I had to recheck our bags in London after our first flights and had to ID them before they were loaded on the plane. So, while we were mildly confident in London's efficiency, (exhibited remarkably by their assembly line security screening where they first check your bad, than your person, and then your shoes-- okay, maybe not efficient at all but intriguing nonetheless), we were terrified that our bads either didn't make it or made it but after the three hours of waiting in line had managed to get lost, taken away, sent back to London and who knows what else. But miracle of miracles- our bags did indeed make it.
Then it was off to find Ben in the airport who I wasn't sure would have stuck around for 3 hours or really whether he was planning on coming at all (given the original 6AM arrival time etc). And so Ben was nowhere to be found but I quickly found a Hilton rep, said my quick goodbyes to Ameena and went off to the Hilton for a nice shower and some sleep.
I spent the morning trying to deal with getting Safaricom to work with a supposedly unlocked Blackberry before giving up and buying a new phone. I was too cranky to think or negotiate and decided it would be nice to get a real phone that works internationally and is not from the stone age. I was truly sold on the email feature which has yet to work. I think I need a data subscription or something. Will follow up on this later- suffice it to say that after hours or no sleep and no connection to the outside world, my decision making skills weren't in the best shape ever. Finally, after some real rest and with working phone, Ben and I managed to connect and meet up for dinner at Ranalo's- the yummy and affordable Kenya food jaunt. YUMMMMMMM. I was too busy sleeping all day to eat and was so happy to finally enjoy a real meal and catch up with Ben.
More on Ben, Kids for Tomorrow etc soon. For now, it's back to repacking for Lamu and then back to bed.
Monday, June 23, 2008
En route back to Kenya
So it's back to Kenya for me . . . a few words on the journey here before diving into the actual trip.
Let us start with the question that has been on the back of my mind for the past few years: London- still brilliant? The answer is a definite yes but there are some caveats. For those who don't know me well, I shuld start off by saying that I lived in Lodon for about 6 months back in 1998 (my junior year at University). I studied at King's College London (Strand campus) and lived in Hampstead. My time in London was in a word lovely (as my british friends would say). I've been back a few times since but not in the last few years due to the pathetically weak dollar and the ever increasing worth of the pound. (Sidenote: Obama, please oh please let the dollar return to some semblance of its former self so that Americans may once again enjoy travel and its best counterpart, shopping in foreign lands). So back to London- I was a bit on edge when I went to the ticket counter in JFK and the Virgin Atlantic representative did not know that they flew to Nairobi. As he represents Virgin Atlantic, and thus Britain (to some degree)- I was seriously getting worried about the state of the British mind. It also didn't bode well that it took me an house to get through immigration at Heathrow. Despite the advancements in technology, they were still bottlenecked with only 4 immigration officials to process all non-UK passport holders! There is definitely some need for improvement here but at least the signage and the people in the airport were as helpful as one could hope for.
But alas, once in London, I was relived to find that they are still indeed brilliant. The tube is the seriously remarkable. I got from Heathrow into central London in maybe 40 minutes on the Picadilly line (no Heathrow Express needed). I not only could hear the name of every single stop we approach clearly over the speakers, but also any changes or helpful hints (like, if you need to go to terminal 5, please get out of this train and wait for the xxx train). I have gotten so used to the NYC Subway system (yes, I know-- it's bigger, it runs all night etc etc) that I had forgotten just how well an underground could work. The digital displays showing the time of the next train, the announcements that are actually understandable, and the famous mind the gap . .. should be added to the wonders of the world!
Once in central London, I sadly took myself to Starbucks for a caffeine infusion and even the Starbucks seems better in London. They have the best yogurt parfaits ever with yummy honey and granola but alas, no egg sadwiches. So, after caffeinating myself and reorienting myself (it's been while), I made it to Trafalgar Square where a huge Hare Krishna Festival had taken over. For reference, I think they are following me or I them because just last week I ended up in the middle of the Hare Krishna festival in NYC by Herald Square (where I rarely, if ever go-- had to return shoes to Macy's that I had bought online). I know my parents will laugh at this since they were convinced I would join the Hare Krishnas in College- well, it's not too late. It's like India coming overseas- kindof amazing. The beatiful saris, the chanting, the people with impossibly happy faces all around you- how can you not wonder?? With the little time I had, I managed to take myself away from the festival and check out Covent Garden, Leicester Square, the shops . . . oh the wonder wonderul shops, and the National Gallery. This brings me to my key point- while everything is seemingly outrageous in London, especially with the dollar so weak, the National Gallery, among other amazing things, is free! So, you don't have to feel badly just going in for an hour or less, strolling around and leaving. It brought back so many good memories from when I lived in Lodon and spent some part of almost every day there. Also, I'm pretty sure Pret a Manger is actually cheaper in London than in the States. So, surprisngly my day in London was cheaper than expected-- although I did have the do my requisite Boots Pharmacy shopping. I sadly had to walk away from a dress at Jigsaw. Fashion there is still so much better than in NYC but at those prices (with the exchange rate as it is now), indulging really wasn't an option. So, maybe it's a good thing I didn't spend the day in the airport as I probably would have spent more money at Heathrow and forgotten just how great London truly is. Hopefully, I'll get back soon!
Let us start with the question that has been on the back of my mind for the past few years: London- still brilliant? The answer is a definite yes but there are some caveats. For those who don't know me well, I shuld start off by saying that I lived in Lodon for about 6 months back in 1998 (my junior year at University). I studied at King's College London (Strand campus) and lived in Hampstead. My time in London was in a word lovely (as my british friends would say). I've been back a few times since but not in the last few years due to the pathetically weak dollar and the ever increasing worth of the pound. (Sidenote: Obama, please oh please let the dollar return to some semblance of its former self so that Americans may once again enjoy travel and its best counterpart, shopping in foreign lands). So back to London- I was a bit on edge when I went to the ticket counter in JFK and the Virgin Atlantic representative did not know that they flew to Nairobi. As he represents Virgin Atlantic, and thus Britain (to some degree)- I was seriously getting worried about the state of the British mind. It also didn't bode well that it took me an house to get through immigration at Heathrow. Despite the advancements in technology, they were still bottlenecked with only 4 immigration officials to process all non-UK passport holders! There is definitely some need for improvement here but at least the signage and the people in the airport were as helpful as one could hope for.
But alas, once in London, I was relived to find that they are still indeed brilliant. The tube is the seriously remarkable. I got from Heathrow into central London in maybe 40 minutes on the Picadilly line (no Heathrow Express needed). I not only could hear the name of every single stop we approach clearly over the speakers, but also any changes or helpful hints (like, if you need to go to terminal 5, please get out of this train and wait for the xxx train). I have gotten so used to the NYC Subway system (yes, I know-- it's bigger, it runs all night etc etc) that I had forgotten just how well an underground could work. The digital displays showing the time of the next train, the announcements that are actually understandable, and the famous mind the gap . .. should be added to the wonders of the world!
Once in central London, I sadly took myself to Starbucks for a caffeine infusion and even the Starbucks seems better in London. They have the best yogurt parfaits ever with yummy honey and granola but alas, no egg sadwiches. So, after caffeinating myself and reorienting myself (it's been while), I made it to Trafalgar Square where a huge Hare Krishna Festival had taken over. For reference, I think they are following me or I them because just last week I ended up in the middle of the Hare Krishna festival in NYC by Herald Square (where I rarely, if ever go-- had to return shoes to Macy's that I had bought online). I know my parents will laugh at this since they were convinced I would join the Hare Krishnas in College- well, it's not too late. It's like India coming overseas- kindof amazing. The beatiful saris, the chanting, the people with impossibly happy faces all around you- how can you not wonder?? With the little time I had, I managed to take myself away from the festival and check out Covent Garden, Leicester Square, the shops . . . oh the wonder wonderul shops, and the National Gallery. This brings me to my key point- while everything is seemingly outrageous in London, especially with the dollar so weak, the National Gallery, among other amazing things, is free! So, you don't have to feel badly just going in for an hour or less, strolling around and leaving. It brought back so many good memories from when I lived in Lodon and spent some part of almost every day there. Also, I'm pretty sure Pret a Manger is actually cheaper in London than in the States. So, surprisngly my day in London was cheaper than expected-- although I did have the do my requisite Boots Pharmacy shopping. I sadly had to walk away from a dress at Jigsaw. Fashion there is still so much better than in NYC but at those prices (with the exchange rate as it is now), indulging really wasn't an option. So, maybe it's a good thing I didn't spend the day in the airport as I probably would have spent more money at Heathrow and forgotten just how great London truly is. Hopefully, I'll get back soon!
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